Belize

By Richard Lewis on November 30, 2018

Packed into an area the size of New Jersey, undiscovered paradise awaits you. Belize is simple, vibrant, historic, but also evolving. The architecture is bright in color and everything was built with breathable access for the coastal breezes. The people are friendly, outgoing, and nurturing – eager to educate you about their small, but exciting, country. With just under forty years of independence, Belize is still searching for its image to build upon, which adds to the excitement of this Central American gem. The coastline is spectacular, with blues and greens always mixing together in harmony. The countryside is full of jungles to explore, caves to swim in, and the occasional Mayan ruin to climb.

Placencia:

My first stop in Belize was Placencia, located on the southeast coast of Belize. This small fishing village rests on a peninsula, hidden from the threat of hurricanes and overlooked by most tourists. The locals in Placencia are well connected, as if all are either a generational family friend, distant cousin, or former colleague. The beat of the village is slow and at night the only sound you’ll hear is the crashing of waves along the beach side.

Our accommodation: Paradise Vacation Hotel $109 per night

Paradise Vacation Hotel was a perfect low-cost option for our stay in Placencia. Located directly on the beach, with palm trees encapsulating the structure, this place is true to its name. The rooms are simple, inclusive of a safe for valuables, perfectly working air conditioning, and a balcony for you to take in the ocean breeze. Their check-in process was as simple as a smile and picking up our room key. For every night stay, they include a rum punch for each guest at their restaurant where everything on the menu is homemade. The owner is always there from breakfast to dinner, interacting with guests to make sure the experience is up to their standards.

Favorite Activity in Placencia: Fishing with a local for the day

Wherever I choose to travel, I always hope to experience the destination as a guest, rather than a tourist. Meeting locals, seeing how they live, and ingraining myself in their culture helps me understand how they view their home within the world. It is at the very least, always a humbling adventure. While exploring Placencia’s coast, I stumbled upon a small group of men filleting their catch at sundown. After a few questions and observations, I realized I had stumbled upon Placencia’s freshest, and only fish market. They were selling everything they had caught that day; King Mackerel, Snapper, Jack, Barracuda, and Tuna. I pinpointed the head fisherman of Placencia, a man named Kevin, and asked if my girlfriend and I could accompany him for a day of fishing. Extra deck hands? He said why not.

The next day, we got on his 18 ft drift boat and motored into the sunrise. The day started out throwing a bait net to catch fresh Silversides, also known as really big Minnows. Shortly after gathering a baitwell full of them it was time to find Kevin’s honey hole. Fistful by fistful, he threw the silversides into the ocean, attracting the predator. In six hours we hooked twenty three Mackerel, ten Snapper, eight Jack, and one Tuna – it was un-BELIZEable. Not only did Kevin know how to fish, he knew how to cook as well. Sunburnt and dehydrated, it was our turn to eat. We reeled in our lines and motored to a local private island with a grill on it. We spent an hour on an island grilling up a fresh fillet of Mackerel and some potatoes. Kevin’s job was to supply the village with fresh fish, and he took it seriously. Every time a fish let loose, or a bite didn’t land, Kevin made sure to let us know his disappointment. Hard nosed, constantly grunting and pleading with the fish to keep biting, Kevin would scream and holler at the pelicans as they dove for the bait we were chumming with. If you find yourself in Placencia, I would highly recommend you go and find him. Since the only way to fish with him is to find him, contact me and I’d be happy to share his picture and phone number.

King Lewey’s Island $195 per night

Belize’s coast is scattered with thousands of beautiful remote islands. My mission before traveling was to find a private piece of paradise I could call my own for a night or two. I found that and more at King Lewey’s Island.  Ten miles off the coast of Placencia lies a small, cozy, and beautiful paradise. King Lewey’s island sits on a bed of ocean boasting every shade of blue imaginable. The sunrise and sunset views on this remote island are what one would only hope to see in a romantic drama. The staff on the island are amazing – there was not a second of my stay that I waited, or had to ask for something. Whether it be a fruity drink, a fresh caught lobster, or help with a picture, the staff at King Lewey’s island live to spoil the guests. The acre-wide island is a newly constructed paradise envisioned by King Lewey himself. The activities on the island are simple; catch air on the above-water swings, work on your tan on the many chaise lounges, or sit at the bar and drink with the guests that come and go during the day via sailboat charters.

King Lewey himself is reason enough to visit. His outgoing, fun, extrovert personality will entertain you for hours. Especially listening to the many stories he has accumulated over the short time this island has been open.  While on the island, visit with his pet parrots, dress like a pirate and take pictures with the mannequins, or hunt for the howler monkey. Enjoy the ocean by going for a swim in the turquoise water, night fishing with a hook and spool for Jack, or become one with the marine life by snorkeling around the corals.

Next Stop: San Pedro

The easiest way to get around Belize is to fly locally on small Cessna planes to your select destination. Maya Air and Tropic Air are both reliable and affordable airlines to get you around Belize. To get to San Pedro from Placencia consists of two, fifteen minute flights. Remember, Belize is the size of New Jersey, so flying is short and seamless. San Pedro, Belize is a peninsula located northeast of Belize City. It is by far the most touristy and built up place for guests visiting Belize. Golf carts are the main mode of transportation, and if you are staying for longer than three days, I highly recommend renting one. For food, try the conch fritters at  Sandy Toes, you can actually taste the conch in them!  Elvi’s kitchen would also be a great choice if you are looking for more of a fine dining experience.

Accommodation: The Blue Tang Inn $185 per Night

The Blue Tang Inn is a perfect spot for couples or families traveling to San Pedro. It is clean, safe, close to the city center, and has incredible restaurants nearby.  Roger, the manager, and his staff are always willing to help make your stay in San Pedro memorable.

Snorkeling: The Blue Tang Inn has a sailboat called the Sierra Azul that will take you out for a day of snorkeling and exploring nearby sights. I would highly suggest going for the day to see Hol Chan Marine Park (amazing snorkeling), Shark Ray Alley (touch sting rays and nurse sharks), and lunch at Caye Caulker. While snorkeling Hol Chan, we were able to see flourishing coral, sting rays, incredible schools of fish, as well as a few barracuda. Shark Ray Alley is a special place. As soon as the boat starts arrives, the staff starts chumming.  The Nurse sharks, Jack, and Sting Rays come running to eat next to the boat. Slip your fins and snorkel on, and get ready to observe them up close. Caye Caulker is a fabulous island to spend a few hours having lunch and exploring The Split, a narrow waterway that divides the island in two caused by Hurricane Hattie in 1961.

The Blue Hole: A two hour journey south from San Pedro will bring you to Blue Hole, a massive sinkhole that opened up off the coast of Belize. There are two main ways to experience it: Dive in it or Fly over it. The depth of the Blue Hole is about 400 ft, so it is almost impossible to enjoy it up close unless you are a certified diver with experience. For people looking to snorkel, locals say it is too deep to see anything worth the two hour boat ride to get there. The other way to experience the beauty and mystery of the Blue Hole is to hop on a Cessna tour from either Maya or Tropic Air. Since my girlfriend and I both aren’t certified divers, we decided to charter a three seat Cessna from Tropic Air and see it from the sky. The journey begins at the San Pedro airport, and lasts about an hour. The aerial views of the coast line are breathtaking. The pilots show you the coast of San Pedro, Lighthouse Atoll, The Blue Hole, and an old ship wreck, with hundreds of mini islands scattered in between. Seeing the Blue Hole in some fashion must to be on your list when you visit Belize.

Fishing: The final activity to do while in San Pedro is to go deep sea fishing. The proximity of the reef to mainland Belize allows for a quick trip to the drop off and a plethora of trophy fish to try for. There are Sailfish, Marlin, Wahoo, Tuna, Mahi Mahi, Barracuda, and Sharks. The owner of my tour company, Captain Hilly Boo, is known around San Pedro for his elite fishing skills and has been doing it for over forty years. He doesn’t fish as much anymore, so our captains were Richard and Bryan, two young guys who love to fish. After a thirty minute boat ride, the rods were rigged and we were off trolling. I had more fun, and caught more fish in eight hours with them than I have had in over a decade. In total, we caught nine Wahoo, two Mahi, and twenty one Barracuda. The highlight of the trolling day was when we found a school of Wahoo. All four rods hit at the same time and Richard, Bryan, and myself were racing to land our own fish. After the pro’s got their two, mine was about to be gaffed when out of nowhere, a bull shark decided he wanted lunch. The shark took the lure (and my fish,) another 200 yards before I finally reeled it in, leaving only half a Wahoo on the line. Disappointing, but a story to tell for the ages.

It’s always hard to say goodbye to a vacation, but leaving Belize felt harder than others. Saying goodbye to the owners of the hotels, the fisherman who helped me gaff my first Wahoo, and the locals who pointed my golf cart in the right direction throughout the trip was difficult. Anthony Bourdain was once quoted, “I learned a long time ago that trying to micromanage the perfect vacation is always a disaster. That leads to terrible times.” He couldn’t have described Belize better. There are no lines for “must see buildings”, no need to call and reserve the best restaurants months in advance, or worry that selfie sticks will crowd that moment with your special someone. For now, the sights, experiences and people of Belize are eager for visitors. Please, go see the sunrise over the turquoise horizons, eat a greasy fry jack, ask a local to take you fishing, or just simply make conversation with someone that isn’t on the opposite side of a screen. Whatever you do, appreciate all of the simple pleasures within Belize. There is going to be a moment when Belize opens its arms and offers you an opportunity. Hug it back and accept.